Perfumetherapy, healing emotions
Thursday, 15 August 2013
Perfumetherapy, healing emotions
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 11:53
Wednesday, 7 August 2013
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 03:20
Friday, 26 July 2013
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 18:35
Thursday, 25 July 2013
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 18:05
Tuesday, 23 July 2013
This is why we may love some smells that other people hate, because we lived opposite experiences with that scent.
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 21:12
Saturday, 20 July 2013
Philosophy sets the basics of morals and ethics in whatever field it inquires, because when it reveals truth from falsehood, it reveals also the right from the wrong.
This is also the limits of philosophy, any philosophy is worth only the philosopher.
The first thing which is taught to the students who want to enter a Way, a profession, a trade or an art is its ethics and its philosophy.
Guerlain is reported to have said to perfumery students: “Have simple ideas, work them scrupulously, never cheat on the quality and make good products”.
continue to read...
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 15:16
When you buy it from an Italian producer, even with an online purchase, you will get the real quality. Full unbroken pistils of the flower. When I tinctured Italian Saffron, I noticed that the colour of the tincture was not as strong as the one I got from a Saffron bought in Asia.
It is a widespread practice to doctor the pistils with carotene, the colorant that gives the typical saffron colouration to your rice when you prepare the “risotto”.
The carotene allows dealers to add other vegetal materials looking like broken pistils to the “more precious than gold” pistils. Customers are also more satisfied because a very little amount of the doctored saffron is enough to give the saffron colour to foods and it is much cheaper than the real good one.
continue to read...
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 15:13
Friday, 12 July 2013
In the Hebrew mystic all senses are considered as giving pleasure to the body, except the sense of small that was designed to give pleasure to the soul.
However, Hebrew mystic is not the only one to consider perfumes as a spiritual affair.
The texts of the scents of the soul are all about olfactory psychology and philosophy.
A perfumer without philosophy is like an artist without inspiration, not worth much more than an old pair of socks dropped on the roadside.
In a pheromone talk, speaking about spiritual affairs would seem out of place, but we are talking about perfume, and this is where it comes to the point. Continue to read...
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 12:56
Thursday, 11 July 2013
The making of custom perfumes is the key to understanding the work of a perfumer.
In nearly all cases we compose perfumes for someone or else with someone.
The first case is that of a company who wants a new fragrance. It will give a brief and we shall start making a set of proposals.
These will be presented to a person of the company who is in charge of the valuation of the fragrances. This “évaluateur” will judge the samples with different criterions, one of which will be the reaction of other persons to them.
It may be a board of specialists, some company’s employees or his own friends and family.
It depends on how far he brings his job into his private life.
Because the work of building the fragrance is based on a brief, this type of perfumes can be called “custom concept perfumes”. Continue to read...
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 14:27
Time ago I received two samples of goat musk from Gayla of the Always Enough Ranch in California where she breeds goats. She wrote:
“ I know they have musk glands behind their horns, but I believe they exude musk through their urine too. They pee on their faces to perfume themselves. And on their legs, and on their bellies….And every inch gets somehow perfumed.”
She collected the perfume very simply rubbing the goat in the two places mentioned with cotton wool.
After tincturing I can see a huge difference between the two. The substance collected from the head has the typical smell of goat and goat cheese while the hind leg substance is very much more like muskdeer, a very sexual smell almost without the goat smell. Continue to read...
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 14:23
There is a clear parallel between music and perfumery, between olfactory and musical melodies, and we shall use this likeness in order to understand better the “why” and the “how” of olfactory education.
Just like music, perfumery is an art and even a major art, being entirely dedicated to one of our senses of perception, the sense of smell.Why is perfumery not taught at school just like music or drawing?Is perchance our sense of smell a minor sense of little importance? Do we perhaps love perfumes less than other civilizations? Continue to read...
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 14:19
Sunday, 17 June 2012
With a press release, the Natural Perfumers Guild (NPG) has defined what is considered a natural isolate by its standards, to which all perfumers endorsed by the guild will have to abide.
In the same go, NPG has defined what Guild perfumers should NOT consider “really natural” although they are “legally natural” according to international standards.
In brief, natural isolates are those single molecules extracted from essential oils and natural raw materials existing in Nature, while single molecules extracted from Bio-Tech made material are NOT natural. continue...
Natural perfumers Woldwide
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 04:09
Tuesday, 28 February 2012
The problem of today’s pandemics is a modern problem.
The disease is easily recognized, its modes of propagation are immediately understood, but the common antibiotics are without effects.
When suddenly appears a virus resistant to 8 antibiotics, no virologist believes that this monster may have acquired his immunity all by itself. They know that it is impossible.
These are the pandemics that threaten us in the near future, you recognize it when you hear doctors on television, saying: “We have never seen anything like that.” Read all the article
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 04:21
Wednesday, 21 September 2011
Luca Turin may very well have started the whole process of recognition for Natural Perfumery when in 2006, in his iconic duffnotes on NZ Folio, he declared to the perfumistas community with an amazing foresight: “There are now officially four kinds of perfumery: normal, niche, vintage and natural.”
His statement was not a recognition of the value of natural perfumes, not yet. It was only the recognition of natural perfumers stubbornness. He understood that they were starting a trend and that they were not going to renounce to their idea of making 100% natural perfumes whatever happens and whatever Luca Turin said.
Continue to read...
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 08:35
The last 20 years have witnessed not only the birth and growth of independent natural perfumers but also the of “New Niche” perfumers, like Ormonde Jane, Andy Tauer, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, ecc… , who steadily won recognition and reached a level of success superior to that of natural perfumers by proposing a return to the origins of modern perfumery, where the artistry of fragrance resided into the clash or complementarity of synthetics with naturals.
Their success in the niche market has been due to the fact that they were offering what had totally disappeared from mainstream perfumery and was disappearing from “Old Niche”, creativity, experimentation, new ideas…
Continue to read...
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 04:47
Those who accepted her views stayed in the guild, others left and went ahead on their own, stubbornly.
Stubbornness is an obvious quality of natural perfumers. They started making perfumes that nobody wanted to buy, that critics criticized, with ingredients that are very expensive and often difficult to find. The cost of their materials are medially 20 times superior to medium price Synthetics, this makes their fragrances more expensive and therefore more difficult to sell, and with a lower profit margin. Moreover, consumers have known only synthetic mass mainstream perfumes, and their first encounters with natural essences are most of the time something of a shock.
Natural perfumers just went ahead not heeding to reason or to anyone, carried by passion for the natural smells.
Continue to read...
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 04:45
Monday, 22 August 2011
From my years of travel in the Muslim world where I have been for so long a guest myself, I have learned the art of receiving guests.
When hosted by a perfumer, a guest expects to receive some gifts of perfume sample or at least to be invited to smell some very special perfumes.
My guests are always amazed when I serve them tea or coffee flavored with the essences of exotic species. Cardamom, Ginger, Mint, Lemon …
To the drinking water I add a drop of perfume, I spray over the cookies essence of grapefruit or lemon, and if they come to me with some cold or other illness, I prepare for them some sugar cubes with a few drops of anise or incense ….
Then I say my favorite phrase: “Never trust a perfumer who does not drink his perfumes.” Continue...
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 08:14
It takes some training to be able to understand Civet perfume, one has to overcome the social olfactory programming that make us classify straight away this odor among stenches.
An infinitesimal dose of Civet can double the longevity of short lived fragrances, and although being in amount so little as to be subliminal, it also confers to fragrances a new olfactory dimension, the animal one, and our instinct recognizes it immediately. continue...
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 07:58
Monday, 5 November 2007
Men usually prefer woody or spicy or “grassy” accords, while flowery ones are considered to be feminine scents.
Posted by AbdesSalaam Attar at 20:39