Thursday, 15 August 2013


Perfumetherapy, healing emotions

The olfactory memories are custodied within our central nervous system and they are but a memory code that activates the different endocrine glands into pouring in our blood stream a cocktail of neurochemicals that will reproduce the emotions.
In the same way as a musician could write an infinity of melodies with just six notes, our endocrine system with six major endocrine glands and neurochemicals can play an infinite variety of emotions.

Wednesday, 7 August 2013



In a natural perfume the ingredients that are not smelled are more important than the ones smelled.
That is because they are the context in which main accords are perceived.
In olfactory psychology, the psychological effect of an odour depends in great part from the context in which it is smelled.

Friday, 26 July 2013


Good news for sandalwood lovers who have witnessed in the last years the total disappearance of the real Santalum of Mysore caused by years of illegal and excessive logging..
While the distillation of local sandalwood in Mysore has stopped, some smart Australians have imported the Santalum Album tree in order to fill the emptiness that the Indian disaster has created in the market.

Thursday, 25 July 2013


How natural raw materials are different? Part two of three:
2) Healing perfumes
At the origins of the use of scents and fragrances, the philosophy of perfumery associated perfumes to spirituality and to healing.
This is so true that the knowledge of their preparation was reserved to priests and healers. In many cultures these two figures and functions were united in one person, the spiritual healer. This observation leads us straight to the concept of Spiritual healing.
Spiritual healing has been the only way in the story medicine until recently, it apprehends human being, disease and the function of the medic in a logic governed by the principle that the dimension of the spirit governs the physical one. Our actual philosophy of medicine has separated these two aspects, reducing the dimension of the spirit to mere psychology and physical neuronal processes.

Tuesday, 23 July 2013


How natural raw materials are different? Part one of three 
1). There is a language of scents based on olfactory archetypes. A basic, instinctive, deep and compelling language in which meanings are emotions.
How do smells get associated with emotions? Through our olfactory memory. It memorize them through the emotions that were experienced in its presence.
This is the part that we share with animals, we identifies smells as being simply good or bad in function of the emotional context in which they are perceived. Often with basic emotions such as fear, hunger, anger, joy, satisfaction, love…
This is why we may love some smells that other people hate, because we lived opposite experiences with that scent.
Whenever smelled again, the odors will reawake the emotions associated to them in our memory so that we can identify the meaning that they bearfor us in absolute terms of being good or bad, pleasant or unpleasant.
From each individual, his experience of life will make some smells awaken positive or negative emotions. These are the olfactory memories individually acquired.

Saturday, 20 July 2013


A philosopher is always a revolutionary because he aims at discovering truth and he does so by denouncing falsehood.
Philosophy sets  the basics of morals and ethics in whatever field it inquires, because when it reveals truth from falsehood, it reveals also the right from the wrong.
This is also the limits of philosophy,  any philosophy  is worth only the philosopher.
The first thing which is taught to the students who want to enter a Way, a profession, a trade or an art is its ethics and its philosophy.
Guerlain is reported to have said  to perfumery students: “Have simple ideas, work them scrupulously, never cheat on the quality and make good products”.
continue to read...


The Abruzzi region of Italy produces some of the finest saffron in the world.
When you buy it from an Italian producer, even with an online purchase, you will get the real quality. Full unbroken pistils of the flower. When I tinctured Italian Saffron, I noticed that the colour of the tincture was not as strong as the one I got from a Saffron bought in Asia.
It is a widespread practice to doctor the pistils with carotene, the colorant that gives the typical saffron colouration to your rice when you prepare the “risotto”.
The carotene allows dealers to add other vegetal materials looking like broken pistils to the “more precious than gold” pistils. Customers are also more satisfied because a very little amount of the doctored saffron is enough to give the saffron colour to foods and it is much cheaper than the real good one.
continue to read...

Friday, 12 July 2013


In the Hebrew mystic all senses are considered as giving pleasure to the body, except the sense of small that was designed to give pleasure to the soul.

However, Hebrew mystic is not the only one to consider perfumes as a spiritual affair.

The texts of the scents of the soul are all about olfactory psychology and philosophy.
A perfumer without philosophy is like an artist without inspiration, not worth much more than an old pair of socks dropped on the roadside.

In a pheromone talk, speaking about spiritual affairs would seem out of place, but we are talking about perfume, and this is where it comes to the point. Continue to read...

Thursday, 11 July 2013


The making of custom perfumes is the key to understanding the work of a perfumer.

In nearly all cases we compose perfumes for someone or else with someone.

The first case is that of a company who wants a new fragrance.  It will give a brief and we shall start making a set of proposals.

These will be presented to a person of the company who is in charge of the valuation of the fragrances. This “évaluateur” will judge the samples with different criterions, one of which will be the reaction of other persons to them.
It may be a board of specialists, some company’s employees or his own friends and family.

It depends on how far he brings his job into his private life.

Because the work of building the fragrance is based on a brief, this type of perfumes can be called “custom concept perfumes”. Continue to read...


Animal fragrances

Time ago I received two samples of goat musk from Gayla  of the Always Enough Ranch in California where she breeds goats. She wrote:
“ I know they have musk glands behind their horns, but I believe they exude musk through their urine too. They pee on their faces to perfume themselves. And on their legs, and on their bellies….And every inch gets somehow perfumed.”
She collected the perfume very simply rubbing the goat in the two places mentioned with cotton wool.
After tincturing I can see a huge difference between the two. The substance collected from the head has the typical smell of goat and goat cheese while the hind leg substance is very much more like muskdeer, a very sexual smell almost without the goat smell. Continue to read...


There is a clear parallel between music and perfumery, between olfactory and musical melodies, and we shall use this likeness in order to understand better the “why” and the “how” of olfactory education.

Just like music, perfumery is an art and even a major art, being entirely dedicated to one of our senses of perception, the sense of smell.Why is perfumery not taught at school just like music or drawing?Is perchance our sense of smell a minor sense of little importance? Do we perhaps love perfumes less than other civilizations? Continue to read...

Sunday, 17 June 2012


With a press release, the Natural Perfumers Guild (NPG) has defined what is considered a natural isolate by its standards, to which all perfumers endorsed by the guild will have to abide.
In the same go, NPG has defined what Guild perfumers should NOT consider “really natural” although they are “legally natural” according to international standards.
In brief, natural isolates are those single molecules extracted from essential oils and natural raw materials existing in Nature, while single molecules extracted from Bio-Tech made material are NOT natural.  continue...  

Natural perfumers Woldwide

Tuesday, 28 February 2012


An interview on Suzanne’s perfume journal to explain the Oud Caravan project


Essential oil diffuser for aromatherapy

Pandemics a manual for survival

The problem of today’s pandemics is a modern problem.
The disease is easily recognized, its modes of propagation are immediately understood, but the common antibiotics are without effects.
When suddenly appears a virus resistant to 8 antibiotics, no virologist believes that this monster may have acquired his immunity all by itself. They know that it is impossible.
These are the pandemics that threaten us in the near future, you recognize it when you hear doctors on television, saying: “We have never seen anything like that.” Read all the article

Wednesday, 21 September 2011


Luca Turin may very well have started the whole process of recognition for Natural Perfumery when in 2006, in his iconic duffnotes on NZ Folio, he declared to the perfumistas community with an amazing foresight: “There are now officially four kinds of perfumery: normal, niche, vintage and natural.”
His statement was not a recognition of the value of natural perfumes, not yet. It was only the recognition of natural perfumers stubbornness. He understood that they were starting a trend and that they were not going to renounce to their idea of making 100% natural perfumes whatever happens and whatever Luca Turin said.
Continue to read...


Not many years ago there were just 3 official types of perfumery, Vintage, mainstream and Niche perfumery, such as Creed or Lutens .
The last 20 years have witnessed not only the birth and growth of independent natural perfumers but also the of “New Niche” perfumers, like Ormonde Jane, Andy Tauer, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, ecc… , who steadily won recognition and reached a level of success superior to that of natural perfumers by proposing a return to the origins of modern perfumery, where the artistry of fragrance resided into the clash or complementarity of synthetics with naturals.
Their success in the niche market has been due to the fact that they were offering what had totally disappeared from mainstream perfumery and was disappearing from “Old Niche”, creativity, experimentation, new ideas…
Continue to read...


Only 3 years ago natural perfumers were a striving bunch of stubborn idealists who had been brought together by Anya McCoy in the natural perfumers guild.
Those who accepted her views stayed in the guild, others left and went ahead on their own, stubbornly.
Stubbornness is an obvious quality of natural perfumers. They started making perfumes that nobody wanted to buy, that critics criticized, with ingredients that are very expensive and often difficult to find. The cost of their materials are medially 20 times superior to medium price Synthetics, this makes their fragrances more expensive and therefore more difficult to sell, and with a lower profit margin. Moreover, consumers have known only synthetic mass mainstream perfumes, and their first encounters with natural essences are most of the time something of a shock.
Natural perfumers just went ahead not heeding to reason or to anyone, carried by passion for the natural smells.
Continue to read...

Monday, 22 August 2011

Perfumery and aromaterapy

Honoring the guest is much more than a part of the tradition of Islam, it is part of its fundamentals.
From my years of travel in the Muslim world where I have been for so long a guest myself, I have learned the art of receiving guests.
When hosted by a perfumer, a guest expects to receive some gifts of perfume sample or at least to be invited to smell some very special perfumes.
My guests are always amazed when I serve them tea or coffee flavored with the essences of exotic species. Cardamom, Ginger, Mint, Lemon …
To the drinking water I add a drop of perfume, I spray over the cookies essence of grapefruit or lemon, and if they come to me with some cold or other illness, I prepare for them some sugar cubes with a few drops of anise or incense ….
Then I say my favorite phrase: “Never trust a perfumer who does not drink his perfumes.” Continue...

Human sweat and perfumery pheromones

Whoever smelled pure Civet for the first time has wondered how such an odor could enter into a perfume bottle. My first impression was the smell of rotten tooth.
It takes some training to be able to understand Civet perfume, one has to overcome the social olfactory programming that make us classify straight away this odor among stenches.
An infinitesimal dose of Civet can double the longevity of short lived fragrances, and although being in amount so little as to be subliminal, it also confers to fragrances a new olfactory dimension, the animal one, and our instinct recognizes it immediately. continue...

Monday, 5 November 2007

Male perfume, tips for conquest

Men usually prefer woody or spicy or “grassy” accords, while flowery ones are considered to be feminine scents.
My experience with perfume customers has shown me that there is a clear division between men and women scents, but many women prefer men’s perfumes while only a minority of men prefer flowery soft and romantic scents to wear. Continue....