Friday, 26 July 2013


Good news for sandalwood lovers who have witnessed in the last years the total disappearance of the real Santalum of Mysore caused by years of illegal and excessive logging..
While the distillation of local sandalwood in Mysore has stopped, some smart Australians have imported the Santalum Album tree in order to fill the emptiness that the Indian disaster has created in the market.

Thursday, 25 July 2013


How natural raw materials are different? Part two of three:
2) Healing perfumes
At the origins of the use of scents and fragrances, the philosophy of perfumery associated perfumes to spirituality and to healing.
This is so true that the knowledge of their preparation was reserved to priests and healers. In many cultures these two figures and functions were united in one person, the spiritual healer. This observation leads us straight to the concept of Spiritual healing.
Spiritual healing has been the only way in the story medicine until recently, it apprehends human being, disease and the function of the medic in a logic governed by the principle that the dimension of the spirit governs the physical one. Our actual philosophy of medicine has separated these two aspects, reducing the dimension of the spirit to mere psychology and physical neuronal processes.

Tuesday, 23 July 2013


How natural raw materials are different? Part one of three 
1). There is a language of scents based on olfactory archetypes. A basic, instinctive, deep and compelling language in which meanings are emotions.
How do smells get associated with emotions? Through our olfactory memory. It memorize them through the emotions that were experienced in its presence.
This is the part that we share with animals, we identifies smells as being simply good or bad in function of the emotional context in which they are perceived. Often with basic emotions such as fear, hunger, anger, joy, satisfaction, love…
This is why we may love some smells that other people hate, because we lived opposite experiences with that scent.
Whenever smelled again, the odors will reawake the emotions associated to them in our memory so that we can identify the meaning that they bearfor us in absolute terms of being good or bad, pleasant or unpleasant.
From each individual, his experience of life will make some smells awaken positive or negative emotions. These are the olfactory memories individually acquired.

Saturday, 20 July 2013


A philosopher is always a revolutionary because he aims at discovering truth and he does so by denouncing falsehood.
Philosophy sets  the basics of morals and ethics in whatever field it inquires, because when it reveals truth from falsehood, it reveals also the right from the wrong.
This is also the limits of philosophy,  any philosophy  is worth only the philosopher.
The first thing which is taught to the students who want to enter a Way, a profession, a trade or an art is its ethics and its philosophy.
Guerlain is reported to have said  to perfumery students: “Have simple ideas, work them scrupulously, never cheat on the quality and make good products”.
continue to read...


The Abruzzi region of Italy produces some of the finest saffron in the world.
When you buy it from an Italian producer, even with an online purchase, you will get the real quality. Full unbroken pistils of the flower. When I tinctured Italian Saffron, I noticed that the colour of the tincture was not as strong as the one I got from a Saffron bought in Asia.
It is a widespread practice to doctor the pistils with carotene, the colorant that gives the typical saffron colouration to your rice when you prepare the “risotto”.
The carotene allows dealers to add other vegetal materials looking like broken pistils to the “more precious than gold” pistils. Customers are also more satisfied because a very little amount of the doctored saffron is enough to give the saffron colour to foods and it is much cheaper than the real good one.
continue to read...

Friday, 12 July 2013


In the Hebrew mystic all senses are considered as giving pleasure to the body, except the sense of small that was designed to give pleasure to the soul.

However, Hebrew mystic is not the only one to consider perfumes as a spiritual affair.

The texts of the scents of the soul are all about olfactory psychology and philosophy.
A perfumer without philosophy is like an artist without inspiration, not worth much more than an old pair of socks dropped on the roadside.

In a pheromone talk, speaking about spiritual affairs would seem out of place, but we are talking about perfume, and this is where it comes to the point. Continue to read...

Thursday, 11 July 2013


The making of custom perfumes is the key to understanding the work of a perfumer.

In nearly all cases we compose perfumes for someone or else with someone.

The first case is that of a company who wants a new fragrance.  It will give a brief and we shall start making a set of proposals.

These will be presented to a person of the company who is in charge of the valuation of the fragrances. This “évaluateur” will judge the samples with different criterions, one of which will be the reaction of other persons to them.
It may be a board of specialists, some company’s employees or his own friends and family.

It depends on how far he brings his job into his private life.

Because the work of building the fragrance is based on a brief, this type of perfumes can be called “custom concept perfumes”. Continue to read...


Animal fragrances

Time ago I received two samples of goat musk from Gayla  of the Always Enough Ranch in California where she breeds goats. She wrote:
“ I know they have musk glands behind their horns, but I believe they exude musk through their urine too. They pee on their faces to perfume themselves. And on their legs, and on their bellies….And every inch gets somehow perfumed.”
She collected the perfume very simply rubbing the goat in the two places mentioned with cotton wool.
After tincturing I can see a huge difference between the two. The substance collected from the head has the typical smell of goat and goat cheese while the hind leg substance is very much more like muskdeer, a very sexual smell almost without the goat smell. Continue to read...


There is a clear parallel between music and perfumery, between olfactory and musical melodies, and we shall use this likeness in order to understand better the “why” and the “how” of olfactory education.

Just like music, perfumery is an art and even a major art, being entirely dedicated to one of our senses of perception, the sense of smell.Why is perfumery not taught at school just like music or drawing?Is perchance our sense of smell a minor sense of little importance? Do we perhaps love perfumes less than other civilizations? Continue to read...